With a three-hour drive from Johannesburg, Welgevonden’s ‘Big Five’ Tshwene Lodge is an inviting and accessible bush escape. A stay here offers an opportunity to ‘slow down’ and enjoy the rhythm of the wilderness. I spent three days embracing a slower pace in the bush and returned indeed feeling refreshed.
The welcome
After the surprisingly quick journey from Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International airport, we turned off the tar road into the entrance of Welgevonden Game Reserve. Stepping out the car, Steven walked over and introduced himself as our guide. While we waited for the other two guests to arrive, we eagerly indulged in the welcome snacks and drinks that have been laid out. From the gate, it was a further 30-minute drive to the Lodge, with a host of animal sightings en route – a small teaser of what awaited in the coming days, as well as a gentle way to begin disconnecting from the outside world. When we finally pass through Tswhene’s entrance, a welcoming party comprising the butler, chef, and lodge manager enthusiastically waved us in, offering warm towels and refreshing drinks.
The room
We followed the stone path through the bush until reaching the standalone suite. Upon entering, I was immediately greeted by the scent of exposed thatch ceiling above – an enduring aroma I’ll always associate with game lodges in South Africa. The bed in the spacious room is perfectly positioned to enjoy the views – enhanced by the floor-to-ceiling glass windows. With the sliding doors open, there’s access to a veranda where you can sit and absorb the sights, scents, and sounds of the reserve. The elevated position of each suite creates a distinct treetop feeling – and allows for wildlife spotting from the comfort of your room.
The bathroom
The bedroom leads to the back of the suite, where the spacious bathroom is located. Double vanity mirrors and sinks are complemented by a shower and bathtub. South Africa’s beloved Healing Earth amenities are used throughout – including one of my favourites, the Lemon Verbena and Argan Oil foam bath. Stepping through the shower door, one can enjoy a wash in the wild, as a private courtyard houses an outdoor shower. With hot water and privacy, it’s a wonderful way to cleanse after a game drive, especially in the evenings, when tilting your head back reveals a thousand sparkling stars.
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The facilities
Safari life revolves around morning and afternoon game drives. Welgevonden is a Big Five reserve, teeming with wildlife, birdlife, and flora. Steven and Gerhart expertly led us through the reserve – a favourite of mine because of its varied topography. The Waterberg mountain range slopes into bush-covered ridges, golden-grassed plains, and perennial waterways. It’s a landscape full of surprises.
Back at the lodge, several communal spaces encourage relaxation after safari. The central lounge features couches with wildlife-related reading material, plus a bar and indoor dining area. Glass doors open onto the deck where meals are served al fresco, and a pool with loungers offers bush vistas. A TV lounge provides an escape for those wanting to watch an episode of their favourite series or a sports game on the big screen.
Finally, the spa enhances the relaxation experience – a dedicated room overlooking the surrounding bush. Several treatments are available, including the use of the egg-shaped natural stone bath – reminiscent of the renowned tubs at Tshwene’s sister property, The Outpost in Kruger. These beautiful spaces prompted me to forgo two game drives, choosing to relax in the tranquillity of the bush: enjoying a leisurely bath, reading on the deck, and finishing with a cocktail at the pool.
The location
Welgevonden Game Reserve is situated in Limpopo, the province north of Gauteng in South Africa. It’s a three-hour drive from OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, and thirty minutes less from Pretoria – half the travel time compared to the Kruger National Park. Located on a plateau, it remains cooler in summer than Kruger. The malaria-free reserve covers 37,000 hectares of diverse landscapes – a sizeable wilderness area accessible only to lodge guests, with no day visitors allowed. There are also direct flights from Johannesburg to the reserve itself, launching in December 2025. Flights will depart on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and take only 45 minutes, bookable directly with Tshwene Lodge.
Other lovely touches
Tshwene falls under the hospitality group Rare Earth Retreats, which curates a collection of remarkable properties across South Africa. One such property is a wine estate near Plettenberg Bay on the famous Garden Route. Many still do not realise that world-class wines are produced in this region, not just in the well-known Western Cape Winelands. During all-inclusive stays at the lodge, guests can sample these delicious wines – perhaps even booking a future trip to the estate.
In the central lounge, I noticed a ‘Sightings Book’ at a secluded desk. I sat down and realised guests are encouraged to share their sightings and experiences. A novel idea I hadn’t encountered before; I felt like I went on a mini-safari as I read through the stories – even adding our own.
Tshwene as recently had a rather smart refurbishment, with new decking, a recoated pool, and some new furniture in the common areas and suites – all complementing the elegant, yet understated décor that ultimately, allows the connection to nature to be the hero feature. Lastly, without wanting to spoil too much of the surprise, every few evenings guests are invited for an intimate fire-side dining experience in the dedicated boma area – a treat of note!
The cost
The standard rate for a stay at Tshwene is around £350 per person sharing, and as an all-inclusive offering, it incorporates: two guided game drives with sundowners and snacks, all meals, all beverages (excluding premium brands), and the transfer to the lodge from the Welgevonden Main Gate or airstrip. Throughout the year, the stay-four-pay-three deal applies, along with last-minute booking specials which start at £190 per person sharing.
The best part
With no shortage of lodges in South Africa, it’s easy to feel like just another guest – especially in larger lodges. This is perhaps Tshwene’s advantage – with only five freestanding suites, it offers a very intimate stay, which is why it’s so popular as a romantic getaway for couples. With numerous communal spaces, there’s never a sense of intruding on others – rather, an invitation to enjoy the luxury of spaciousness. This also means more personable service: our butler quickly recognised my favourite wine, and I felt comfortable enough to lean through the kitchen window to chat with the chef (cheekily asking for his chicken curry recipe).
The final verdict
When a nature trip calls, Tshwene might just be the answer needed. With the close proximity to Johannesburg, it’s an accessible stay that is enjoyed by both locals and foreign visitors alike. And if like us, you’ll hopefully be lucky enough to have scooped up all the Big Five sightings on your first day.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Son Brull Rural Sanctuary
Jared Ruttenberg
Jared Ruttenberg is a travel writer from Cape Town, South Africa. He enjoys connecting people and experiences through words, images and social media.
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